Friday, November 24, 2006

Holiday Plants

With the approaching of the holidays many people will be bringing home brightly colored plants to add to the festive atmosphere. Taking proper care of the plants will help to keep them looking good throughout the holiday season and with proper care your plants can last for several weeks or even a few months.

A plant that has been a traditional holiday favorite for years is the Poinsettia. They are now available in various leaf and flower colors. Make sure you start out right by buying a healthy plant. Select a poinsettia that has dark green foliage. If you choose a plant that has lots of color it will not develop much additional color after it leaves the store. The yellow flowers in the center of the colored bracts should be small and bright. Make sure to look carefully for any signs of insects and avoid any plants that have spotting on the leaves. Once you bring the plant home they need strong sunlight to develop their deep color. Blooming plants will maintain their color if in strong, indirect light.

Keep the plant evenly moist, but there should not be standing water in the plant's saucer. This might require watering two to three times a week. Water the plant thoroughly and after 15 minutes empty any water that is standing in the saucer. Poinsettias prefer temperatures in the range of 60 to 70 degrees once their color has developed, but they do not like drafty areas. Once the flowers start blooming give them a liquid fertilizer once very two weeks.

One thing to know is that poinsettias are not poisonous. This is a folk tale that has been around for over 70 years. The plants are not meant to be eaten, but studies show they are not poisonous to humans or animals. Another mistaken belief is that the red leaves of the plant are the flowers. These are actually brightly colored leaves and the rather insignificant yellow buds in the center of the plant are the actual flowers.

Another plant that can add some color for the holiday is an Amaryllis. This plant is typically bought as a bulb. The bulb should be planted in a pot that is just slightly bigger than the bulb, just make sure that the pot has good drainage. Use a good potting soil, but only cover about 1/3 of the bulb. Once planted make sure you water thoroughly. Once the plant starts to actually grow place it in a sunny window. Water whenever the soil is dry to the touch. After the plant has bloomed, cut back the flower stalk, but not the leaves. You can then continue to grow the plant as you would any other house plant.

Paperwhite Narcissus is also a holiday plant that starts out as a bulb. Narcissus bulbs should be planted in a pot with good drainage. The bulbs should be placed close together with their pointed end up. Leave the top half of the bulbs uncovered. Once planted, water the bulbs thoroughly. Place the pot in a well lit, but cool room. Once the shoots are about an inch tall the plant can be moved to a warmer room.

For a different twist on a holiday plant try a Christmas cactus. These plants are easy to care for and can have flower colors that are shades of pink, yellow, salmon or white. The cactus can adapt to low levels of light, however, it will bloom more in higher light levels. Christmas cactus is not a true cactus and is not quite as drought tolerate as other cactus plants. The plant should be watered thoroughly when the top half of the soil is dry. Feed the plant every two to three weeks. Plants that are exposed to drafts, overwatering or are too close to a heat source may drop their buds.

And a note about the most traditional of holiday plants, the Christmas tree. When bringing home a freshly field cut tree it should have a new cut about one inch from the old base. Having a fresh cut will remove any clogged wood that may not readily absorb water. Depending on the size of the tree, it may absorb up to a gallon of water the first day you have its in the tree stand. Always make sure there is plenty of water in the tree stand. To keep the needles fresh longer you may want to consider spraying the tree with Wilt-Pruf or another type of antiranspirant. These are clear films which slow water loss from the needles. Insects can hitch a ride on your tree. To prevent bugs from coming into your home, shake the tree and bounce it on the pavement a few times before bringing it indoors. If you see signs of insects, spray the tree with a insecticide containing pyrethrins before bringing it indoors.

Plants add color, texture, and smells to your holiday festivities. Spending time to get to know what your plants need will add to your enjoyment throughout the holiday season.

Sunday, November 19, 2006

Xeriscaping

A xeriscape is a landscape that consists of plants with minimal water requirements which can withstand long periods of drought. These plants typically are natives and therefore compatible with your local environment.

I would encourage forum members to give this approach consideration rather than using bluegrass, ornamentals and installing irrigation systems.
It makes a great deal of cents and is very rewarding.

Here is a great website

Following is a nice website on environmentally friendly landscaping. I would encourage you to check it out. Many of their tips are very useful for any part of the country. I hope you enjoy it.

www.clemson.edu/cyn/nine.html

Lakeshore landscaping

I wanted to post something here about a client of mine because I am so pleased with his lakeshore ethic. We always harp on this forum about people coming to the lakes and then wanting to establish bluegrass lawns that are irrigated and then mown right to the lake's edge. This gent has a property on Mary Lake just east of Emily which he recently purchased. It has some erosion problems that he hired me to help him with. The gravel road just behind his home is five ft. higher than his property so water runs off the road toward his house. Like many of the lakes in this area wave action from large boats and jet skis is eroding his lakeshore. For most people riprap seems to be the answer. Thank goodness this chap is not interested in damaging the lake further. Here is what we are doing.

1. We will be working with the DNR to do aquatic vegetation plantings in the lake. This will minimize the wave action and provide valuable habitat for fish and other critters. Most people want to remove the natural vegetation which is the worst thing to do.
2. We will be establishing a no-mow zone ten ft. in from the edge of the gravel road. Nature will take its course with native plants like the interupted ferns and large leaf aster moving in. This will provide better root systems and reduce the velocity of runoff.
3. We will be establishing a no-mow zone back an additional four ft. from the lake. Again nature will take its course with native plants taking over.
4. We will be planting Pennsylvania sedge in areas that are now bare and sandy.
5. We will be establishing a defined walkway to the lake using turfstone to keep people from walking at random. The turfstone has large holes in it which allows water to pass through it.

Best of all this gent will spend more time enjoying the lake and less time mowing, while protecting his property and the lake at the same time.

Did you know

Minnesota state law requires that companies who install low voltage wiring as part of an irrigation system or landscape lighting system hold a Technology System Contractor license and that each company must have a licensed Power Limited Technician on staff.

If you are contemplating having one or both of these systems installed, ask your contractor if they carry these credentials. If they don't, find a different contractor. You deserve to have work done by someone with the appropriate experience and training.

Two very important items prior to landscape construction

Please remember these two items, as they might save money and a life.
Prior to any landscape construction do the following:

1. Check with your local governmental unit to make sure you are permitted for the construction you are undertaking. This might include more than one unit such as Soil and Water Conservation Districts, county, township or municipality offices. I know of a case where steps were constructed down a bank and into a lake without being permitted. The city made the homeowner remove the steps. I know of another case where a paver patio and fire ring were installed far closer to a lake than permitted. The homeowner had to pay a large fine and triple the cost of what a permit would have cost. Do the correct thing and meet your local requirements.

2. Always contact your local "One Call" for a thorough utility locate. It normally takes 48 hours and might just save a life or at least a lot of money. I know of a fellow who purchased numerous hedge plants and went to work. Little did he know that in the planting process he cut the phone line in seven places. It is so easy to avoid these problems with one simple phone call.

I would love to hear other tips or experiences of interest from the rest of you. Please jump in.

A money saving tip

Most homeowners who purchase good topsoil, river rock and boulders do so through a local landscape nursery or gardencenter. I would suggest going directly to the source. Most areas of the country have sand and gravel quarries that will sell direct to homeowners. The landscape contractors get their soil, rock and boulders from the same source. By the time it is delivered to their site, they have to mark up the cost to make a profit. They then charge you a delivery fee to your home, hence the cost can be quite a bit higher. Avoid all of that and make your purchase at the source. The money saved can be put into plants or other landscape features.

A new article to review

Most recently we put together a short article entitled "A Rather Shady Affair". To read it please go to our main site www.gizmocreations.com
On the right hand side of the home page you will see it listed. It gives some good information on Brunnera. Incidentally, these are wonderful mass planted for a groundcover in shady areas.

Plants from early years as a kid

Have any of you in your fifties or older noticed that the plants we grew up with as children just aren't used today. That is rather sad, really. Some of them were wonderful and I still have fond memories of many.

Let's start a list of the plants we had as kids that are rarely used today that should be planted.

Here are my two contributions: Bridal Wreath Spirea and Lily of the Valley. Jump in here now with your additions.

Transplant Shock

I stumbled upon a product recently called Wilt Pruf that is terrific. I simply spray my perennials with it the night before I intend to transplant them. The plants don't seem to experience any wilting or dehydration. I highly recommend it to all of you gardeners.

American Bittersweet

We have several in pots and two of them are loaded with beautiful fruit. If you use them please remember that you need both a male and female plant withing 30' of each other for them to bloom and fruit. They are a great vine for trellises and fences. The fruit is commonly used for table displays at Thanksgiving time.

I purchased ten American Bittersweet vines from Cross Nursery in Lakeville, MN this spring. The Bittersweet (like Gingko Biloba) has both male and female plants, therefore the need to purchase enough to make certain that you end up with some that will bloom and fruit. The male plant can pollinate up to four or five female plants and should be located within 30' of the female plants. If you are looking for something a little different, this might be it.

Tips on trees


If you are looking for information on trees, whether it be planting, diseases, identification or pruning here you go. I think you will enjoy this site. www.MNtrees.org

Avoid the locators blue's syndrome

Under Minnesota law, effective January 1st, 2006, excavators by any definition are required to: "use white markings for proposed excavation except where it can be shown that it is not practical; (see MN statute 216D.05 Precautions to avoid damage). Always call Gopher State One Call two working days before you dig for utility locates.

Saturday, November 18, 2006

Don't cross your work when landscaping

This is one of the biggest problems I see while doing landscape consultations. Folks begin by making the front and sides of the home attractive and then later decide to work in the back area. To do this they frequently have to cross the original landscape work with heavy equipment. The best way to approach implementation of your design is to begin at the least accessible point in your yard and then work your way out. By doing this you never have to cross your completed work again.

Tips to make a small yard look bigger

Here are a few tricks that might help.
1) Don't use a lot of plants that are red or orange in color. Those dramatic colors draw you in and will actually make a yard look smaller. Think of using shades of blues and purples. Putting those colors in the back of your yard will make the yard appear larger.
2) Use elements to suggest space. Put an arch at the back of your yard. This will suggest that the area is an entryway to a larger area when actually the arch only implies there is additional space beyond.
3) Create a sense of persepctive. Use a large element in the front part of your yard to enhance depth. You can frame your yard with an ornmental tree in the foreground which will make the backdrop appear deeper than it actually is.

Softening boulder walls


In this area boulders are being relied on too heavily by landscapers and homeowners. They end up looking sterile and overwhelming. Here is an example of how to soften them. In the attached photo mossrose was used. It is an annual in the upper midwest that requires very little soil, can withstand sun and heat, and needs minimal watering if any. Another option is to use creeping sedum. They too require only a handfull of soil stuffed in to a crevice, watering only when first planted and will withstand sun and heat. Another option is to use fewer boulders and more native plantings. Instead of massive amounts of boulders, try a few boulder outcroppings combined with some native grasses.

Free book - water gardening

The Beckett Corporation has a free 48 page booklet called "Water in the Garden" that includes ideas and instructions for various water features. You will not even have to pay postage. Go online at http://www.888beckett.com/ for all the details. I am going to request one for our own use.

The three fives


Whenever I teach home landscape design classes I always tell participants how to get ideas and I always talk about the three - fives. The first of the three is to check out five good books at your local library (unless you live in North Mankato), visit five garden centers or related landscape companies and finally to visit five great gardens. These can be public or private, but you can learn a lot. Take lots of notes and photos. Four gardens that I have learned a great deal from are the Reiman Gardens on the Iowa State University campus, Munsinger/Clemens Gardens in St. Cloud, MN, the Minnesota Arboretum, and the Enger Tower Gardens in Duluth, MN.

Natural steps


Here is a nice alternative to the ususal concrete, timber or keystone steps. This is a set of natural steps with flat boulders that we designed for a lady locally to replace her rotted timber steps. They are rustic and very natural and in addition will last forever. Try something that is a little out of the ordinary in your landscape design. Consider non-traditioanl elements and ideas and you will be suprised with the result.

Horrid landscaping


Following is an example of terrible landscaping here in the Brainerd lakes area. In my opinion this is the worst example of a berm that I have ever seen. Note that the boulders that comprise the edging are perfectly in line and sitting on the surface. The ornamental grasses and evergreens are all perfectly spaced. The evergreens are all one variety, Colorado Blue Spruce, and are all the same height. There is quite simply no landscape interest here and this scheme does not look natural. I would encourage forum members to use fewer boulders in your landscapes and they should appear to be gently pushing up from the ground. You will notice that not all of the trees appear healthy. I would suggest the use of native trees, and varied species and heights. As far as the grasses go, it is preferable to use native species. You can do much better than this.

Landscaping with potted plants


Following is a photo from the gardens in Staples, MN that shows how potted plants can be used to enhance your landscape. You will notice that the pot sizes vary but blend in quite nicely. Also notice the compatible colors, with pinks, blues or purples and white in the distance behind. Too many contrasting colors always makes it look like the little kid in the candy store. Another plus for using potted plants is that you can extend your season here in the upper midwest. At the first sign of frost you can simply move your pots in to your garage for the night and put them back out in the morning when all danger of frost has passed. This was really quite nicely done and is something that any homeowner can do.

Acting as your own project manager

I recently finished a complete design for a client in Brainerd. He then supplied copies of the plan to five different landscape contractors and obtained quotes from each for the entire job. He wasn't pleased with the results so he decided to act as his own project managar. In doing so he found the nursery that had the plants at the best price. He then found the company that would do the irrigation system at the cheapest rate. Next he found the contractor willing to do all the earthwork and seeding at the best price. Finally he selected the landscape contractor with the cheapest rates to install the plants that he had purchased. By taking the time to do this he saved $7,500. I think this is a great example of how to save money on a large project.

Patio


So many people assume that patios should be constructed from concrete or pavers. Following is a photo of a nice alternative that features chilton flagstone. It is softer in appearance, allows for surface water to permeate more easily between the flagstone, minimizes runoff, looks more natural, and can be mowed right over. This particular job was completed by Lakeside Lawn and Landscape. I would encourage this type approach when creating your own home patio.

Hiring a landscape contractor

There are people who throw a wheelbarrow in the back of their pickup and call themselves a landscape contractor. Your landscaping is the first thing people see and can add a substantial amount of value to your home. So you should really spend some time in choosing a contractor and not just pick someone out of the phone book or classifieds without doing a little more research. Here are a few questions to keep in mind:
1. How long have you been in business?
2. Are there specific types of work you perform - are there things you can't do? If required, (such as for electrical work or irrigation systems) what is your license number? Don't just ask if they have a license or if they are certified, request to see a copy of their certifications.
3. Have you done similar jobs before?
4. Ask for references. Don't just look at photos. Go and see actual work. Photos can be manipulated.
5. Will you use your own crew or will you subcontract? How often will the supervisor (owner, etc.) be on site?
6. Will you provide a written estimate and contract?
7. What type of work schedule do you follow? What happens if your work is delayed due to weather?
8. Do you provide clean up?
9. What kind of guarantees do you provide - both on hardscaping and plants?
10. Do you carry workers comp and liability insurance?
Contractors generally require a downpayment, a payment halfway through and then a final payment at the end. If you are not satisified, make sure the work is corrected before making the final payment.

Saturday, November 11, 2006

Building Retaining Walls

This comes from the "Landscape Focus" which is a publication for the landscaping industry put out by your Cat dealer.
1. Consider the design. Rather than building a retaining wall in a straight line or a simple curve, consider a serpentine or "S" curve to give the wall added appeal and interest.
2. Think about height. If the site allows it, instead of building a six-foot-high retaining wall, two three-foot-high walls separated by a terrace, may look better and provide an additional area for planting perennials and shrubs. Also, lower walls are far more stable.
3. Plan a smooth ending. How will the wall terminate? Rather than coming to an abrupt vertical ending. A more pleasing look may be achieved by having the wall taper gradually into a slope or by stepping it down.
4. Create an homogenous effect. Consider how the color and texture of the retaining wall will compliment the existing landscape and nearby buildings. Perhaps using a different color or material would help the wall blend in more smoothly.
5. Look at the big picture. What types of plants, rocks and other landscaping will be installed next to or above the wall? This can affect the height, curvature and placement of the wall. Try to visualize the completed project before starting it. In addition I would recommend the following. View completed sites with a variety of walls. Check out several books and study the subject prior to beginning. Take your time.

Free Landscape Course

Gizmo Creations has a free on-line landscape design course. Take the course on your own pace. You will learn the basics of landscape design, terminology, learn how to prepare a base map, and get a lot of great information. Check out our course at: http://www.suite101.com/course.cfm/19442

Landscape Design Book for Beginners

If you are just getting started in Landscape Design, check out the following book: Home Landscaping Manual: http://www.gizmocreations.com/books.html, which is available from Gizmo Creations. It is a good way to understand the basics of landscape design and how you need to begin the process of landscaping your yard.